I don't know how strictly the law is enforced, down the street from me is a bar where everyone weekend its packed with Mercedes and BMWs outside, for the card games, I somehow doubt they are just playing with chips. As for gambling, yes, that is true, Italy has very strict laws about where you can gamble on card games, in fact its only permitted in casinos, of which there are a few in all of Italy.
Lots of card games there.) Most likely the bar where you were didn't like the down-home association-imagine you are in some nice bar in downtown Manhattan, I don't think they would dig it if you got out your travel board game of Connect Four and started playing. Cards here are seens mostly as a game for old men, something they would do a their local hangout (all towns have a community center, a kind of club house, for elderly people.
